Yet, there is a special kind of richness that comes from slowing down and taking your time. Ordinary “travel” and “accommodation” transform into memorable experiences, colored by landscapes and the warmth of people along the way.
Watching the countryside pass by through the train window and letting yourself fall into the rhythm of the ride, you eventually arrive at a place where the scent of tatami mats welcomes you — a traditional Japanese inn, or ryokan. Here, you can experience a side of Japan that is hard to feel in the convenience of city travel: a truly authentic Japanese journey.
Minamiaizu, Fukushima, is the perfect region for such experiences. On my journey, I chose to travel from the Oza-Toro Train to Nishikiya. Every moment — from the views through the train window to the carefully prepared dishes awaiting me — was filled with a sense of specialness, leaving a lasting impression on my heart.
▷Learn more about the Oza-Toro Scenic Train
▷Learn more about the Onsen Minshuku Nishikiya
Author Profile
Kensuke Matsuyama (World’s Ken)
After moving to Poland, Kensuke Matsuyama launched the SNS platform “Ken / Solo Japanese Style”, creating content that connects Poland and Japan. He now focuses on videos showcasing Japanese culture and daily life, reaching a total of 1 million followers. Kensuke also runs “Japan of Japan” (YouTube, 60,000+ subscribers), introducing traditional ryokan and hidden gems across Japan. Through his content, he shares the authentic charm of Japan beyond the big cities, offering a Japanese perspective to a global audience.
Scenery of Minamiaizu Beyond the Train Window
What Is the “Ozatoro” Train?
“Ozatoro” is more than just a cute-sounding name — it’s not a whimsical reference like Studio Ghibli’s Totoro.
The name combines two Japanese words:
- “Oza” (お座敷) — a traditional tatami seating area where passengers remove their shoes and sit on cushions, offering a uniquely Japanese sense of comfort and relaxation.
- “Toro” (トロッコ) — a trolley-style train car, open to the wind, with no windows, letting you directly feel the sounds and scents of nature.
In short, it’s like the Japanese habit of shortening names — just as “Brad Pitt” becomes Burapi or “Cristiano Ronaldo” becomes Kurirona.
Now, back to the train itself: the Ozatoro Train departs from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station and passes through Nanukamachi Station, Yunokami Onsen, To-no-Hetsuri Station, before arriving at Aizu-Tajima Station. The full journey lasts about an hour and a half, and it’s not just transportation — it’s an experience that feels like a journey in itself.
Here are three highlights that make the Ozatoro Train truly special.
1. Unique Seating Options
The train offers three distinct types of seating: Oza-shiki (tatami seating), trolley seats, and observation seats.
First, the Oza-shiki seats feature low tables with cushions in a horigotatsu style, where passengers remove their shoes and sit comfortably. The moment you settle in, you feel a sense of warmth and familiarity, as if you’ve been invited into a Japanese home. Spread out some local sweets or sake purchased at the onboard shop, and it becomes a cozy little gathering.
Looking out the window, you can watch rice fields and traditional villages glide by, immersing yourself in the rhythms of daily Japanese life. For travelers from abroad, this tatami-style seating offers a truly special cultural experience.
2. Trolley Seats — A Breath of Fresh Air
The trolley seats offer a completely different experience. With no windows, the wind, the sound of rivers, and the scents of plants flow freely into the carriage. It feels as if your entire body is immersed in nature, awakening a sense of adventure.
In spring and summer, the cool breeze from the rivers is refreshing. In autumn, vibrant foliage seems almost within reach, and in winter, the crisp air tingles on your cheeks. This seat allows you to experience the changing seasons of Japan directly.
If the tatami-style Oza-shiki seats embody Japanese comfort, the trolley seats capture the pure feeling of freedom and openness.
3. Stops at Scenic Viewpoints
The Ozatoro Train features three renowned scenic spots where it pauses on railway bridges, allowing passengers to fully enjoy the views. One of the most famous is the Fukasawa Bridge.
As the train reaches the bridge, it briefly stops, giving passengers time to take in the scenery. Below, the clear waters of the Ōkawa River sparkle, while steep valleys rise on both sides. The reflection of sunlight on the river, the breeze flowing through the gorge, and the rustle of trees combine to create the sensation of being completely embraced by nature. During this pause, the conductor provides commentary, sharing the local history and insights into the lives of people in the area. This combination of serene quiet and dramatic scenery enhances the magic of the train journey.
Additionally, as the train enters a dark tunnel, a movie projection appears on the tunnel walls, creating a whimsical experience that makes you feel like a child again. The sudden images emerging from the darkness are both surprising and delightful.
3. Send Your Thoughts from the Train’s Mailbox
The Ozatoro Train even has its own mailbox on board. Passengers can buy original postcards, write messages, and post them directly during the journey.
Writing in the crisp, fresh air of Aizu seemed to naturally add warmth to every word. Things that might feel awkward to say in daily life flowed easily onto the page in this unique setting. I even wrote a postcard to my father, with whom I don’t usually talk much — and while writing this article, I received a thankful message from him!
It felt like stepping into a Studio Ghibli world, a moment to reflect on myself while immersed in the journey. I can only imagine how stunning the scenery must be under a blanket of winter snow, and I’m already looking forward to experiencing it in the snowy season.
Stepping into Japan’s Timeless Countryside
After about an hour on the train, I arrived at Yunokami Onsen Station — the only station in Japan with a thatched roof.
The station resembles a traditional farmhouse, complete with a foot bath and an irori hearth, making the building itself a small sightseeing spot. Stepping off the train, you’re immediately embraced by a calm atmosphere, far removed from the bustle of daily life, where your heart naturally begins to relax.
Nishikiya | A Ryokan Where You Can Fully Experience Aizu Traditions
Located in the heart of Yunokami Onsen, Nishikiya immediately stands out with its striking black-lacquered exterior. Walking along the stone-paved path, guests are welcomed by carefully tended bonsai and a serene pond where koi swim leisurely. The garden feels like a condensed expression of Japanese aesthetics, instantly heightening the sense of anticipation for the journey ahead.
Inside, the ryokan opens up to spacious tatami rooms with prominent wooden beams. Soft light filters through shoji screens, gently filling the room and naturally relaxing both body and mind.
For international visitors, experiencing a night sleeping on a futon in a traditional tatami room is a must. The scent of the tatami and the softness of the futon create a memory entirely different from sleeping in a hotel bed. Of course, for those unaccustomed to Japanese-style rooms, there are also Western-style rooms with beds, so everyone can stay comfortably.
On the table, you’ll find Aizu’s local specialty, walnut yokan, along with a tea set where you can choose from several varieties. English labels are included, so even visitors from abroad can easily enjoy them. This thoughtful detail makes the experience simple and welcoming.
Relaxing in an Onsen Surrounded by Nature
The hot spring at Nishikiya is a natural hinoki (Japanese cypress) bath. As you sink into the warm water, the soothing aroma of the wood fills the air. Gentle breezes drift in from outside, while the sounds of birds chirping and insects create a natural soundtrack. It’s a truly immersive experience that makes you feel one with nature.
One of the best features is that the bath can be reserved for private use by time slot. This is perfect for those who prefer not to use public baths, or for families and couples who want to relax together. While soaking, you can enjoy the changing scenery through the windows—a luxurious and unique experience.
For amenities, world-renowned skincare brand Aesop is provided, adding an extra touch of care and enhancing your overall experience.
Experience the Traditions of Aizu in One Meal
The highlight of staying at Nishikiya is undoubtedly the dining experience. Dinner is a celebration of Aizu’s culinary traditions and the seasonal bounty of the region, carefully prepared to showcase the flavors and culture of this historic area.
Basashi (Horse Meat Sashimi)
Basashi is thinly sliced raw horse meat served with condiments and soy sauce. While available in various parts of Japan, Aizu’s basashi is truly exceptional. It is lean and surprisingly light, yet each bite releases a rich, savory flavor from the red meat. Unlike what some might expect, there is no strong odor, making it delicate and refined.
For Japanese people, it is a special treat, but for foreign visitors, it offers a unique cultural experience of eating raw horse meat. One bite will reveal just how elegant and nuanced the taste of horse meat can be.
Kozuyu (Aizu Traditional Soup)
The most impressive dish at Nishikiya was Kozuyu, a traditional soup from the Aizu region. It is made with a clear broth from dried scallops, combined with vegetables like carrots, taro, and tofu crumbles.
In Aizu households, Kozuyu is a special-occasion dish, served during New Year’s celebrations and other festive events. The clear, delicate broth has a gentle aroma, and just one sip warms you to the core.
While I have tasted Kozuyu in many places, Nishikiya’s version is extraordinary. The broth has remarkable depth, the vegetables are perfectly balanced, and the soup is both light and full of flavor. It’s so delicious that you’ll want to have multiple bowls. Truly, this dish alone makes visiting Nishikiya worthwhile.
Shingorou (Aizu Grilled Rice Dumplings)
Shingorou is a simple yet iconic local dish from Aizu. It consists of cooked rice shaped into balls, skewered, and grilled over charcoal with a special miso paste.
As it cooks, the fragrant miso aroma fills the air. The outside becomes slightly crispy and caramelized, while the inside stays soft and chewy. The sweet-savory miso perfectly complements the rice, making every bite comforting and delicious.
At Nishikiya, Shingorou is prepared with care, reminiscent of a homemade family recipe. Eating it is not just tasting food—it’s experiencing the warmth of traditional countryside life in Aizu.
Fukushima Beef & Salt-Grilled Ayu (Sweetfish)
The main course at Nishikiya features Fukushima Beef steak and salt-grilled ayu (sweetfish), offering a taste of the region’s finest ingredients.
Fukushima Beef is a highly regarded brand across Japan. Its marbled fat melts in your mouth, delivering rich flavor without feeling heavy. Each bite is succulent yet light, leaving a lingering sense of satisfaction.
The ayu, a freshwater river fish, is prized for its delicate, clean flavor. Grilled with just the right amount of salt, the fish is firm yet tender, and can even be eaten whole, including the head. This dish captures the seasonal essence of summer and autumn, making it a truly memorable experience.
At Nishikiya, the variety of dishes is so extensive that it’s hard to describe them all. The red lacquered tableware gives the dining table a festive and elegant appearance, and with each bite, you can feel the care and hospitality of Aizu. Every course brings a smile naturally as you savor the flavors.
Breakfast is equally impressive. Rice cooked in a traditional clay pot is fluffy, each grain standing perfectly, and its aroma alone is enough to whet the appetite. The accompaniments—vibrantly colored small dishes of pickles, simmered vegetables, and fish—are arranged like a work of art. The balanced selection makes it irresistible to have second or even third servings, offering a full taste of Aizu’s culinary tradition.
After a satisfying meal, you can relax with a warm cup of coffee, savoring the moment and experiencing a true Japanese morning with all your senses.
Staying at a ryokan like Nishikiya may feel more expensive than a typical hotel, but the experience is worth every yen. It’s not just the hot springs, the cuisine, or the beautiful space—it’s the combination of warmth, care, and atmospherethat makes a ryokan truly special. My stay at Nishikiya was a chance to experience Japan with my whole body, and once you’ve had that, it’s hard to go back to a regular hotel.
During my visit, I noticed some foreign travelers—lucky souls who had discovered the authentic, lesser-known Japan. While Aizu is a proud region for Japanese people, for international visitors, it feels like a hidden gem.
That’s why I encourage you to experience it too. From the Ozatoro train to the Nishikiya ryokan, this is a journey you won’t regret—one that will leave lasting memories.
